Tomato frogs are bright, round, and striking. They come from the rainforests of Madagascar and get their name because of that red color. They belong to the Microhylidae family, which is actually the largest frog family in the world.
They sleep through the whole day and wake up at night, and eat insects only. Also, they are friendly for beginners, and many people like them because of their look. If you take good care of your tomato frog it can live around 6 to 8 years.
Natural Habitat
These frogs live on the forest floor and in swampy areas. They like moist soil and leaf litter, and they spend a lot of time burrowing or hiding under plant material. They get active at night, and they are built to sit still and wait for prey.
Are They Good Pets?
They are attractive pets, but not the easiest for a complete beginner. The main needs are stable temperature, steady humidity, clean water, and a substrate that allows burrowing.
If you can handle that, they make interesting pets that show personality. If you are new to amphibians, be honest about how much time and attention you will give them before you buy one.
Buy captive-bred tomato frogs whenever possible. Wild-caught animals are stressed, may carry parasites, and can harm other pets.
Housing Basics
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Size: A single adult can live in a 10-to-20-gallon tank. For a pair, go with a 20-gallon long or 18x18x18 front-opening tank.
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Substrate: Use a moist mix that holds shape and allows burrowing. For example, coconut fiber mixed with organic soil and some sphagnum. Keep the substrate at least 2 inches deep, deeper if the frog likes to dig.
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Hides: Add cork bark, half logs, or buried pots so the frog can hide and feel secure.
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Water: Provide a shallow dish with dechlorinated water large enough for the frog to soak but easy to exit. Change the water regularly.
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Ventilation: Keep some airflow so mold and respiratory problems stay low. But avoid drafts that dry the tank fast.
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Plants that do well in humidity are great here. Pothos, Silver Waffle, Black Velvet Alocasia, and Philodendron Moonlight are all good picks.
Always keep a shallow water dish with clean water. They like to soak often.
Supplies To Have for Tomato Frog Enclosure
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18x18x18 front opening tank or something bigger
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UVB bulb and fixture (Arcadia Shade Dweller D3 7 percent UVB T5 or similar)
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Low-wattage halogen lamp and fixture
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Bioactive kit for 18x18x18 tanks or similar setup
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Isopods and springtails to keep things clean
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Pressure sprayer for misting
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Fogger or humidifier
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Water and feeding dishes
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Cork bark flats or hides
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Thermometer and hygrometer combo, two of them
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Long feeding tongs
Temperature and Humidity
Keep the tank between 70 and 75°F. Most tanks are already close to this. A thermometer helps stay in range.
Humidity should be 50 to 70 percent. A moist substrate, some live plants, and misting once or twice a day help. Use a hygrometer to track humidity.
UVB and Plant Lighting
Even though Tomato Frogs are active at night, they should still have a normal day and night cycle. They can live without UVB, but including it is better. It supports healthy bones, digestion, and the immune system.
Good UVB choices:
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Arcadia Shade Dweller 7 percent UVB
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Arcadia T5 HO Forest 6 percent
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Zoo Med T5 HO Reptisun 5.0
Good plant lights:
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Bio Dude Glow and Grow 16-inch LED
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The Bio Dude Solar Grow 12-inch T5 HO light
Heating
Only add heat if the tank temperature drops below 70°F. A ceramic heat emitter or a small halogen bulb on a thermostat is enough.
Tomato Frog Feeding
Tomato frogs eat live prey only. That means no frozen or pre-killed food. Keep a steady supply of cultured crickets, roaches, and earthworms.
Treat items such as waxworms, mealworms, Phoenix worms, Reptiworms, and fly larvae are fine now and then. But do not make them a regular part of the diet. Those treats are high in fat and low in balanced nutrition.
Feed Size and Prep
Match the prey size to the frog. Young frogs under 2 inches should get small crickets or tiny worms. If a nightcrawler or worm is too long or thick, cut it into bite-sized pieces.
Adult males and females can take larger prey. But never give food wider than the frog's head. Oversized prey risks choking or stress.
How Often to Feed
You should offer food to young tomato frogs that are under about 2 inches every night. Let them forage for 24 hours, then remove uneaten prey. Typical intake for growing juveniles is whatever they can eat in that time. Often, 3 to 4 small crickets or the equivalent.
Adult frogs do well on a schedule every other night. A reasonable adult ration is about 6 to 10 medium crickets. Or the equivalent in worms or roaches, every other night. Adjust up or down based on body condition. If a frog looks fat and slow, cut back. If it looks thin or refuses food, consult a vet or experienced keeper.
Feeding Method and Setup
Feed at night, when tomato frogs are naturally active. Use long feeding tongs to present prey to the frog if needed. You can feed inside the enclosure. But remove any loose substrate or use a shallow feeding dish to cut down on substrate ingestion.
If you are concerned about the frog eating substrate, feed it in a separate shallow container lined with a paper towel for the feeding session. Then return the frog to its habitat.
Watch feeding behavior. Tomato frogs are wait hunters. They will lunge and swallow quickly. If prey is ignored for a day, remove it rather than let it stress or injure the frog.
Gut Loading
Feed your feeder insects a nutritious diet at least 24 hours before offering them to the frog. A good ratio for a homemade gut load is below, given in parts by weight, so you can scale it:
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24 parts whole wheat flour
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8 parts calcium carbonate with vitamin D3
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4 parts brewer's yeast
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3 parts soy powder
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1 part paprika for beta carotene
Mix these and feed them to crickets or roaches for 24 hours before feeding them to the frog. You can add grated carrot, red pepper, or pumpkin to boost carotenoids.
Avoid Overfeeding
Obesity is a common problem. Keep records, weigh or visually check body condition every few weeks, and reduce portions if a frog seems fat.
Treat foods like waxworms and pinkies should be rare. Offer a balanced diet most of the time. Also, rotate prey types so no single item dominates the menu. If you keep feeding a single insect again and again they may start avoiding the food.
Hygiene and Safety
Wash your hands before and after handling feeders and frogs. If you cut worms or prepare food, clean tools thoroughly. If you use supplements, store them dry and away from heat and moisture. Avoid live wild-caught feeders and any insects from yards or gardens where pesticides are used.
If a frog refuses food for several days, loses weight, or shows abnormal stools or skin issues, stop guessing and get a vet involved. If color fades or the frog looks weak, reassess diet, supplements, humidity, and temperature. Many feeding problems are symptoms of another husbandry issue.
Handling
Handle them as little as possible. Their skin is sensitive. Here are some tips to keep them safe:
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Wear gloves. Oils from our hands can bother their skin.
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Only handle when needed, like during tank cleaning.
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Do not grab. Scoop from below and support the whole body.
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Do not hold them high off the ground. They cannot handle a fall well.
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Move slowly so you do not scare them.
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Keep noise down. A calm space keeps them relaxed.
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Wash your hands after handling, even with gloves.
Each frog is a bit different. Watch how yours reacts and adjust. Let them spend most of their time in their setup where they feel safe.
Toxins And Defense
If stressed, tomato frogs will puff up and may secrete a thick white substance. That secretion can irritate skin and sometimes cause swelling if it gets on you. Rinse it off right away with soap and water. Do not let it get in your eyes or mouth. This secretion is a sign of stress, so check your setup if your frog does this often.
Cohabitation
Only keep tomato frogs with other tomato frogs of similar size and age. Do not mix them with other species. Adults may eat smaller frogs, and secretions from one species can harm others. If you keep more than one frog, provide extra space and multiple hiding areas.
Cleaning And Maintenance
Spot clean daily, remove feces from the substrate right away. Do full substrate changes and deep cleaning on a regular schedule. For example, every 1 to 2 months, as per setup and bioactive components.
If using gravel or slate under the soil, remove it and sanitize it in a mild bleach solution. Rinse thoroughly, then dry before returning it. Clean decor and any tools in the same way. Also, always rinse with dechlorinated water before returning items to the tank.
Avoid strong chemicals that can leave residues. When you use bleach, soak for the recommended time and then rinse and air dry well outside the habitat.
Common Health Problems
Red leg syndrome, a serious bacterial infection, shows as reddening of the legs or underside, lethargy, loss of appetite, weight loss, and open sores. It can be fatal.
If you notice these signs, separate the frog, improve water and habitat hygiene, and contact a vet who treats amphibians. The vet may request water and substrate samples and may need to run cultures to identify the cause. Treatment depends on the diagnosis.
Other issues, poor color, weight loss, skin sores, or unusual behavior, can all mean stress, poor nutrition, or pathogens. Regular checks, good hygiene, and a steady diet will prevent most problems.
Vet Care
Find a veterinarian with amphibian experience. If your frog is sick, call the vet first and follow their instructions. They may request water samples, substrate samples, or to bring the frog in for examination. Quick action makes a difference.
FAQs
Are Tomato Frogs Easy to Take Care Of?
They are not the simplest and require some effort. For example, they need steady temp, steady humidity, clean water, and a burrow-friendly substrate. Also, you need to follow a proper feeding and supplement routine.
What Is the Lifespan of a Tomato Frog?
Most tomato frogs live around 6 years in captivity. With good care, some reach 8 to 10 years. Proper diet, clean habitat, and a vet who knows amphibians all help them live longer.
Do Tomato Frogs Need a Water Bowl?
Yes. Provide a shallow dish of dechlorinated water large enough for the frog to soak in and easy to climb out of. Frogs absorb water through their skin rather than drinking. So fresh, clean water is important. Change the water often and avoid distilled water. It can disturb their salt balance.
Do Tomato Frogs Need a Heat Lamp?
Only if your room temperature drops below about 70°F. The target range is about 70 to 75°F. If you need to add heat, use a low-wattage source controlled by a thermostat. Also, the frog should have cool, shaded spots to escape to. Never let the enclosure overheat.
Final Notes
These frogs are not a low-effort pet, but they are not impossible either. If you like the idea of a small, striking frog that spends its time burrowing and hunting at night, they are a good match. They need a stable setup and regular maintenance.
Start with the basics listed here, Also, keep records of temperature and humidity. If you see weight loss, skin issues, or long refusals to eat, call a vet with amphibian experience right away. Responsible care keeps your frog healthy and avoids unnecessary stress for both of you.